Spring Lace Mobius

 Spring Lace Mobius

This pattern is worked in the round, with two different hooks; one for the main body and the first row of the edging and another for the last row of the edging. 

This pattern is well-suited for an intermediate crocheter. A good understanding of how to crochet in the round, as well as a good understanding of what a mobius is and how it is created with crochet is needed. If you need assistance in learning how to start the mobius, I suggest watching this video. 

Please comment below with any questions or corrections. Enjoy!

The finished mobius, before blocking. After blocking, the piece will become slightly larger.

detail of the finished edging. This picture was taken before blocking. After blocking, your piece will become more defined.

Detail of the lace pattern, before blocking. After blocking, the pattern will become more defined

Materials

Approx. 280 yards sport-weight yarn.

1 J/6.00mm crochet hook.

1 D/3.25mm crochet hook.

1 yarn needle.

Stitch Key

sc - single crochet

dc - double crochet

trc - treble crochet

picot - picot stitch (explained in stitch explanation)

st - stitch

slst - slip stitch

fsc - foundation single crochet (explained in stitch explanation)

ch - chain

ch sp - chain space

rep - repeat

yo - yarn over

beg - beginning/begin

sk - skip

Stitch Explanations

fsc (foundation single crochet) - ch 2, insert hook into 2nd chain from the hook, yo and pull yarn through the loop (you now have two loops on your hook), yo and pull through one loop, yo and pull through both loops on the hook.
**The foundation single crochet will provide a finished look to your piece, as well as providing a bit of stretch, whereas a normal chain will not provide the same amount of stretch.

picot stitch - slst into indicated ch sp or st, ch 3, slst into third ch of the ch 3 you just made, continue on as instructed.

Instructions

Foundation Row - fsc 100, join with a slst to beg ch making sure there is only one twist in your chain. 

Row 1 - Making sure to work in only the top or bottom of the chain, ch 3, 1dc-ch1-2dc in the 3rd ch from the hook, * sk 3 ch, 2dc-ch1-2dc in next chain *, rep from * to * around.

When you get back to where you began, you will be set to simply keep going, this time working into the opposite side of the ch, placing your sts directly under the sts you just worked So, for instance, you began working in the top of the chain, you would now begin working into the bottom of the chain, placing your stitches directly under the stitches you just worked. 

When you get back to the very beginning sts you worked, join with a slst to the 3rd ch of the beg ch.

Row 2 - slst into each st to the 1st ch 1 sp, ch 3, 1dc-ch1-2dc into ch 1 sp. * sk next 4 sts, 2dc-ch1-2dc into next ch 1 sp*, rep from * to * around the mobius, joining with a slst to the 3rd ch of the beg ch.

Row 3 - slst into each st to the ch 1 sp, ch 6, trc into same ch 1 sp, * sk next 4 sts, trc-ch2-trc in next ch 1 sp *, rep from * to * around the mobius, join with a slst to the 4 ch of the beg ch.

Row 4 - slst to the first ch 2 sp, ch 3, 1dc-ch1-2dc into ch 2 sp, * sk next two sts, 2dc-ch1-2dc in next ch 2 sp. *, rep from * to * around the mobius, joining with a slst to the 3rd ch of beg ch.

Row 5 - Rep. Row 4

Row 6 - Rep. Row 3

Edging

Row 1 - ch 1, sc in same st, 10 dc in ch 2 sp, * sc in next 2 sts, 10 dc in next ch 2 sp *, rep from * to * around the mobius, joining with a slst to 1st sc. 

Row 2 - With D/3.25mm hook slst to the 2nd dc of the 10 dc grouping, ch 3, slst into 3rd ch of the ch you just made, * sk next dc, picot in next dc *, rep from * to * 3 more times.

* slst in next 3 sts, picot in next st, sl st in next st, picot in next st, slst in next st, picot in next st, slst in next st, picot in next st, slst in next st, picot in next st (total of 5 picot sts)*. Repeat this sequence around the mobius, joining with a slst to the beg slst. 

Fasten off, weave in ends, and block as desired.

Enjoy!

Cat Ball

This pattern was inspired by the fact that I simply don't have enough toys for my small calico kitten. She is so easily entertained that this ball has kept her entertained for hours.

- Materials -

Small amount of worsted weight yarn - I used scraps of Caron Simply Soft that I had used for a larger project.

Several cotton balls - I believe I used 5 or 6.

Small bell - These can be purchased at any craft store (Michaels, Joann Fabrics, Hobby Lobby, etc.).

1 Size G/4.00mm crochet hook.

1 locking stitch marker. 

1 yarn or tapestry needle.

Optional - Cat Nip to place inside ball.

- Stitch Reference -

sc - single crochet 

yo - yarn over

sc2tog - single crochet 2 together 

ch - chain

st - stitch

Rep - repeat

 slst - slip stitch

sc2tog instructions - Insert hook into stitch, yo, pull up loop onto hook, insert hook into next stitch, yo, pull up loop onto hook, yo, pull through all three loops. This will create a decrease in stitches.

**At the end of each round, remove stitch marker and make the indicated number of stitches in the stitch from the previous round. Place the stitch marker in the last stitch of the round you just finished.**

- Round 1 -

ch 2, make 6 sc in 2nd ch from the hook. Place stitch marker in 6th stitch. This will allow you to keep track of where the beginning of the round is without having to make joins. (6 sts.)

- Round 2 - 

2 sc in each st around (12 sts.)

- Round 3 -

*1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st*. Rep from * to * around. (18 sts.)

- Round 4 -

*1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st*. Rep from * to * around. (24 sts.)

- Round 5 - 

*1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st*. Rep from * to * around. (30 sts.)

- Round 6 - 

*1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st*. Rep from * to * around. (36 sts.)

- Round 7 - 

Sc in each st around (36 sts.)

- Round 8 - 

*1 sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog*. Rep from * to * around. (30 sts.)

- Round 9 - 

*1 sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog*. Rep from * to * around. (24 sts.)

- Round 10 -

*1 sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog*. Rep from * to * around. (18 sts.)

- Round 11 - 

*1 sc in next st, sc2tog*. Rep from * to * around. (12 sts.)

At this point, stuff the ball with the cotton balls, bell, and cat nip.

- Round 12 - 

Sc2tog around. (6 sts.)

- Finishing - 

To close opening, you can either slst the opening closed, or you can use your tapestry needle to sew it closed. Weave in ends and let your kitty enjoy.

Crochet Grocery Bag Dispenser

-->

Grocery Bag Dispenser

-Materials-

*1 crochet hook – Size H/8 5.00mm

*Worsted weight yarn – approx. 3 oz. (I used some old acrylic yarn from my stash, so I am not sure of the yardage.)

*1 thick elastic hairband (This will be placed at the starting point of your piece and will be the opening to the bottom of the dispenser.)

*1 yarn needle

-Pattern notes-

*As I noted in the materials list, the required yarn amount is an approximation.

*This pattern can be made to any length of your choosing, so I encourage you to make this as large or as small as you like.

*This is my first written pattern that I’ve shared with anyone, so if you find any mistakes, please feel free to contact me and I will make the appropriate corrections.

*This pattern is worked in rounds. All rounds are joined with a slip stitch unless otherwise noted.

*Each ch. 3 is considered the first dc of each round.

-Pattern Key-

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

slst – slip stitch

ch – chain

chsp – chain space

shell stitch – 5 double crochet into indicated chain space or stitch

FO – fasten off

 st - stitch

sk - skip (i.e. skip 1 stitch)

sp - space (i.e. chain 3 space)

 DCD - Double Crochet Decrease

-Pattern-

Before we begin, you must first create a slipknot on your hook. If you require instruction for the slipknot, there are many video tutorials on the Internet and YouTube. I encourage you to look at these tutorials if you need assistance.

Round 1 – Join yarn to hair elastic with a slst. Ch. 3, 29 dc into elastic. Join with 3^rd ch. Of beginning ch. 3

Round 2 – Ch. 3, Working in back loops only, dc in each st. around. Joint with 3^rd chain of beginning ch. 3

Round 3 – Repeat round 2.

Round 4 - Ch. 1, sc in same st, ch 3 * sk 1 st, sc in next st, ch 3 *. Repeat from * to * around to end. Join with slst to ch. 1.

Rount 5 - Ch. 3, 4 dc in ch. 3 sp, sc in next sc, * work shell stitch in next ch 3 space, sc in next sc *. Repeat * to * around to the end. Join with 3rd chain of beginning chain. 

Round 6 - Ch. 1, sc in same stitch, ch 4, sc in same stitch, * sk 2, sc in next st, ch 4, sc in same st *. Repeat * to * to end. Join with beginning ch 1. 

Round 7 - Ch. 1, sc in each ch 4 sp around. Join to beginning ch 1.

Round 8 - Ch. 1, sc in same st, ch 3 sc in same st, *sk 1 st, sc, ch 3, sc in next st *. Repeat * to * around. Join with beginning ch 1.

Round 9 - Slst into first ch 3 sp. At this point, repeat round 8 around and join with a slst to the first slst of the round.

*You have now come to the point where you decide how long or short you want your piece to be. 

*Repeat round 9 until your piece is as long as you like.

Round 10 - Ch. 1,, sc in next sc * shell st in next ch 3 sp, sc in next sc *. Repeat * to * around. Join to beginning ch 1.

Round 11 - Ch. 1, sc in next st, *sk 2 sts, sc in next st *. Repeat * to * around. Join with beginning ch 1. 

Round 12 - Ch. 3, DCD around. Join to 3rd ch of beginning ch.

Handle - At the end of the last round, after you have joined with the beginning ch 3, ch an additional 40. Sc down the chain. When you reach the bottom, sc up the opposite side. Slst the end of the handle to the bag. FO and weave in ends using the yarn needle. 

**If you require further explanation to the pattern, or have any questions regarding terminology, etc., please feel free to contact me.